My Journey in Niger

Life among the Sokoto Fulani of Niger

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Fulani Life

The Fulani are quite, reserved, and hospitable people. They work the land and take care of animals. The Fulani are flattered that I am learning their language, as most people don’t. They must learn Hausa in order to barter and get other things done when they go to town. The Hausa people do not learn Fulfulde and turn their noses up when I tell them that I am learning Fulfulde rather then Hausa. But let's see...how do the Fulani live?
















This is a very large Fulani village though you cannot tell by looking at this photo. Can you even see the one compound? This village has tons of small compounds that are about 100 yards apart. Sometimes you cannot see one compound from another.

The Fulani typically live in the bush, where they farm and shepherd sheep, goats, and cows. They also raise chickens. Though the Fulani take care of these animals, they do not eat them. They do drink the milk from the animals, and will sell the animals for money if there is nothing to eat.
















These are your typical young Fulani shepherds. After finding the cows some drinking water, these little guys took a break under the shade of this big tree.
















Until recently the Fulani in this particular village have had no milk, because the cows have had no food. They were very proud of the little milk they received from this cow. Notice how she milks this cow: after letting the baby begin the milking process, she ties the baby cow’s neck to the right, front leg of the mother. Then the Fulani lady squats, with the calabash bowl in between her legs and proceeds to milk the cow. They drink some of the milk fresh, and let the rest of it sour before finishing it off.















Here, this Fulani man is working in the millet fields. Recently they received a bit of rain and were able to plant. Now they work the fields, hoping for more rain, so that their millet can grow tall and produce a great harvest. For now the millet looks like small, spread out patches of grass.
















The Fulani store their millet in these little raised huts throughout the year. At this time of year, they are nearly empty, as the Fulani await the harvest.
















This particular Fulani village as a very deep, concrete well. It is very nice except that it is open, and has no pump, and there is always a good bit of “floatage” in the water.

















Perhaps one good reason for having co-wives is that you have a partner in helping draw water from the well. This well has to be more than 50 feet deep and requires a lot of strength and energy to get water. They have a thick bag attached to a grass rope that they throw into the well, and then pull out, using the grooved logs as a guide.















Walking back to the leader’s compound, after going to the special cow milking location. Throughout the village, there are these little winding paths that lead you from compound to compound, the well, cow milking location, and then to the “road.” And yes, they can get a bit confusing.
















The Fulani staple: chewtam. Every day the Fulani eat the same thing, chewtam. This is pounded millet, then cooked with water. It is more like a thick drink. Sometimes its fresh and sometimes its super sour. Trust me, it is better fresh; and if it is still warm from the fire it is even better. But don’t get me wrong, either way you look at it, it is not good.















This is one of our Fulani friends who is very helpful when we do our teachings, because he has so much patience. Can you see all the marks on his face? He has some very detailed markings all over his face, but it is difficult to capture with a camera.

2 Comments:

  • At 3:35 PM, Blogger Peggy said…

    thanks for sharing! sounds like you are getting adjusted...chewtam sounds like the "to" (toe) we used to eat in mali...nasty! ;)

     
  • At 6:16 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Your "chewtam" was our "toe". it was close to tolerable when teamed with some sauce made from "bou-bou" leaves. when i tried to think of ground millet being really schmushed grits it helped a little bit. i miss you.

     

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